![55watt hid vs 55watt halogen heat 55watt hid vs 55watt halogen heat](https://image.dhgate.com/0x0s/f2-albu-g5-M01-39-05-rBVaI1lwXhaAfr8SAAMdmWLPyac414.jpg)
If you are concerned about light output I would suggest not going above 5000k. You will also find that the 55W kit will not have as even of a light spread as a 35W HID kit. A true 55W HID kit will get you approx 15% more light output than a 35W HID kit however they will produce more glare given that the size of the arc will be bigger. They end up overdriving the 35W bulbs which means that the bulbs will burn hotter and burn out quicker. Many vendors that sell 55W HID kits simply use 50W ballasts with 35W bulbs. The cheaper ones tend to go out a lot.ĭefinitely do not go with 55W HID kits. You may want to get a back up HID kit to keep in the car if you get one of the cheaper kits. We've got a lot of vendors on here that sell HID kits pretty cheap. I would recommend a 6000k 35w kit since you want a hint of blue with your HID's. The slim ballast kits are usually more expensive though.Ħ. They can also flicker if they don't get enough power. Sometimes HID's will flicker if you buy a cheap kit or if you have a bad ballast or bulb. You don't have to have a relay but I would recommend it, especially if you decide to go with a 55w kit.ģ. Some 55w kits run too hot and can burn up your wiring.Ģ. Which type of kit would you pick? and why?1. Will I need to connect a relay to the battery?Ħ. Which is better for the SC - 35w or 55w?Ģ. I would like to know what brands you guys have and your experience with them and which ones to stay away from. I have been looking on Ebay and I have seen kits from $35-$150, but $35 seems way to cheap. I am looking at either 5k or 6k, I want White with just a hint of Blue. Car Detailing and Show & Shine Prep sponsored by Autogeek.Hey everyone, need help on choosing the correct type of HID's.Car Audio & Electronics sponsored by Bavsound.Tire & Wheel Forum sponsored by The Tire Rack.Suspension Tech and Handling sponsored by.Professional Motorsports sponsored by Bimmerworld.Track, Auto-X & Drag Racing sponsored by.General BMW and Automotive Discussion sponsored by Intercity Lines.Quick Navigation 1988 - 1996 (E34) Go Top But anyway, like Jedi said, the big issue isn't the actual heat output, it's when the bulbs touch the inside of the housing on small fogs, and is unlikely on our style of fog lights. It's almost funny to see a cone of light pointing up and away from a car driving at night. You wouldn't believe how many people around me drive with their brights on because their lowbeams are aimed for crap, and often their highs aren't much better. You can have all the light you want, but if it's not pointed where it needs to be it does you no good. I also keep my lights aimed properly, which is a big deal. I don't drive with my fogs on all the time though, I use them more like they're meant for - only when I need more light, like in bad weather, or on dark roads when I can't use my brights. and as for my fogs, I'm planning on getting the DDM 55w hid's in 4500k flavor. There are other 'definitions' for a watt, but in this application it's fine to think of the watts as heat. P is power, often expressed in watts with electronics, E is voltage and I is current.
![55watt hid vs 55watt halogen heat 55watt hid vs 55watt halogen heat](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/58A3lzamuec/mqdefault.jpg)
but i do know its a measure of power deal with a bit in my thermo class at the momentĪll i've really known close that is the most basic V=IR but good to know that new one nowWell, technically its P=E*I. So what are you deciding for your fogs then?Īnd i've never heard watts=voltage*current.